Upon A Roman Bridge

Cordoba, Spain

Let's talk about those places we wished we'd stayed in for longer. Now, as you might already be aware of (if not, read other blog posts from earlier in this year), Spain wasn't the easiest of foreign soils for me to move around on. This is by no means intended to be a fierce criticism; I saw some nice places, met some lovely badarses and discovered the joy that is pistachio ice cream but if I was blackmailed into choosing the best land I'd ever walked upon outside of Straya I'd pick the Netherlands. That said, I REALLY DID visit some NICE places and Cordoba sits at the top of my Spanish list.

Cordoba, Spain (taken 2016)

My initial interest took off when I learnt Cordoba was used as a filming location in Game of Thrones (which is how I ended up settling on Northern Ireland and Morocco as well, go figure). The Roman Bridge filled in for the city of Volantis (where Tyrion and Varys are first seen in season 5 and where Theon's sister Yara was chasing the hookers) which did have a good look about it so upon leaving Madrid (warning, the trains felt like they were squeezing through tunnels which can induce nose bleeds) Cordoba was my first stop.

As for time spent I had a full day here which I'll always be grateful for. This little town is humbled; it's by no means in your face and that makes it shine; had I known what Seville had in store for me I would've stuck around longer. Seriously, I would have! The only let down was a bad paella loaded with broken shells. No idea if it was a local style but be mindful when in the area looking for lunch.

Cordoba, Spain (taken 2016)

Just by simply walking the cobblestone roads along white washed buildings and orange trees was blissful enough. It's most definately a place to wander around, get lost and find something you didn't think to expect. I for one found everything listed in my Lonely Planet but it was still a joy; go at the right time and you can enter the Mezquita-Catedral for free.

Cordoba, Spain (taken 2016)

A few surprises that also found me included the Plaza de las Tendillas and the Capitulares which kinda fuses the new and the old sides of Spain together.      

Cordoba, Spain (taken 2016)

On the topic of favourite stops, one I was happy to wander through was the Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs which came close to being the filming location for the Water Gardens in the show everyone keeps spoiling on the Facebook abomination. Gotta love them Sand Snakes (Team Nymeria!) and Dornish plotlines even if no one else will.

Cordoba, Spain (taken 2016)

I'm not the religious sort (an argument for me being a 'sometimes paganista' can be made) and architecture doesn't strike my fancy (YES, this was considered when booking my ticket to Europe) but walking through the Alcazar of water features, orange trees (you can eat the oranges but they're really bitter) and dodgy selfies was a highlight. THIS is what made my trip to Spain! THIS made me want to stay longer! One day I'll be back in Europe, visiting places seen and unseen, and Cordoba is going to be on that list! Alcazar, thank you!

Cordoba, Spain (taken 2016)

I know I'm using a lot of exclamation points...

One final highlight, which gives me all the more reason to appreciate the picturesque Roman Bridge, was the opportunity to 'cloud' at sunset. I'm a nature junky, through and through, and watching the clouds come and go is a passtime I for one enjoy immensely. Been going on for me since the childhood.

Cordoba, Spain (taken 2016)

At the day's close I was on the bridge, cone of pistachio making me diabetic in hand, and gazing up at the abstract shapes and shades decorating that place where birds fly. The sky at this time of day is the ultimate. This, good readers, is why I travel! 

So Dam Worth It!

Amsterdam, The Netherlands

The promise to myself was that I couldn't re-read Neverwhere by Neil Gaiman until I had this bad boy online... so here we are kiddies. Thank my numerous pagan dieties if you will. It is Amsterdam, a city of wooden shoes, a serious and devout love for the bicycle and THE sexiest place I've ever been! Maybe it's best that the little people don't read this in depth.

Amsterdam, The Netherlands (taken 2016)

Having made this stop towards the tail end of my big Dorito Tour of western Europe and Morocco, mostly because I had a friend in the Netherlands I'd promised to visit back in 2011, I can honestly say it was a decision wisely made. The original plan was to devote three whole days here after leaving Marrakech but when in Madrid I realised that three days didn't feel right; I was being cheap.

So, after making a few changes to my domino effect prone itinerary and giving the finger to Ryanair, I had myself a flight with Iberia booked and paid for. It was only once I'd  landed at Schipol that I realised these changes were SO DAM WORTH IT! See what I did there?

Amsterdam, The Netherlands (taken 2016)

After reuniting with my friend and her family outside of the city (Athena, I will make more time for you next time. I SWEAR!) I saw what there was to get lost in. There's plenty in case you were wondering.

This is a city built on water, or 're-claimed land' as they call it, which immediately had my interest. The canals I especially enjoyed so DO A RIVER CRUISE! Galleries are in steady supply, such as the Van Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuseum, and Dam Square which I found to be pleasant and a joy to walk through. You might even spot the odd group of anarchists going to town.

Amsterdam, The Netherlands (taken 2016)

Feeling safe here is a constant. I went out a couple of times at night which isn't in my nature (more on that soon) and I was surprised to learn that SO many of the Dutch are bilingual. When I found out that they're taught English from a young age (old girls at the train station returning from Peru are a valuable source of intel) I knew everything would be a lot easier. Having spent the previous fourish weeks surviving on my limited Spanish, Arabic and French, which at one point brought out the worst in me, you can understand that I was feeling pretty elevated.

Amsterdam, The Netherlands (taken 2016)

Upon completion of a free walking tour (I can't understand why the guide chose THE noisiest places to speak at or to hold up a bottle of water to show us where to go) I was set to see the dam city for myself. There I go again; my second hostel has lot to answer for.

From my hostel in Amsterdam, The Netherlands (taken 2016)

Aside from an abundance of souvenir shops selling little bears dressed as dominatrixes and stoners, these here are some of what I enjoyed most about Amsterdam.

Amsterdam, The Netherlands (taken 2016)

First and foremost, I consider it a blasphemy to swing by without seeing the Anne Frank House. Seriously, I do. It's one of those experiences that need to be had. However, thanks to some poor planning I failed to book a ticket online several years in advance. However (yep, that's the word of the day), thanks to a lack of sleep your good Sheep here was able to score the first spot in line which is a monstrocity of a creation. However (don't hate me now), the conversations with randoms were good and free WiFi made the line all the more bearable.

Amsterdam, The Netherlands (taken 2016)

Going through the house itself was one of THE most surreal experiences of my life, I kid you not. Whilst it's almost been stripped bare of furniture and other homely features, one is almost left feeling there's limited space to move around in.

One of THE most significant voices in history was spoken within those walls and I was definitely on edge about stepping out of line. Seeing the diary itself was jaw dropping and I made the decision then and there to read it. I've been following the education activist Malala Yousafzai for many years now and it was here that I made the obvious realisation that before Malala, there was Anne Frank. The words of an opressed youth are a powerful instrument.

Very close to the Anne Frank House, and I mean spitting distance but don't go doing that, you will come across the Homomonument stretching out over one of the many canals. Whilst it's no secret that the Jews were persecuited by the Nazis, it was up until recently that I'd learnt very little (at least to me) had been shared about what was done to the LGBT victims of the holocaust.

Amsterdam, The Netherlands (taken 2016)

Amsterdam certainly isn't shy about its pride (rainbow flags are in steady supply) and the Homomonument is its tribute to the men and women of LGBT orientation opressed by Adolf Hitler. Please, if and when here, put some time aside to go see it.

Now upon my return some coworkers, and even a few of the parents of the children I teach to swim, have come to ask how my sex and drugs tour went. Did I or didn't I try some weed? Having now welcomed this joke with a WTF look I can say that I didn't go dabbling. Amsterdam is very laid back when it comes to prostitution and marijuana, a given and a prominent reason as to why so many tourists make the visit (I shared a dorm with several who kept going 'I wanna get high').

I did stumble into a coffee shop, Bulldogs it was called, and noticed bowls of brown stuff on the tables but that's as far as it went. The Dutch aren't in your face about it and for all it's a choice. Hell, the Dutch don't even like it I'd learnt. That said I am in awe of how easy it is for me to come across the stuff without even trying.

Amsterdam, The Netherlands (taken 2016)

And here we are talking about the Red Light District. Originally it wasn't at the top of my list before visiting. IT. WASN'T! I'd found myself with so much time to use up though. Since walking tours of the sex worker epicentre were available I signed up and found it impossible not to laugh. My guide never stopped dropping the one liners. It was on this night I learnt that Amsterdam has an odd perception of what a rabbit's genitalia looks like and that there's porn available to youths 18 years and under. NOT. KIDDING.

Amsterdam, The Netherlands (taken 2016)

Walking with a unique mix, one of which was a Canadian in her 50s who was determined to see a peep show (husband on wife action was showing so I wasn't game), we got a lot of stories and women in windows waving at us. Twas nice. If you're traveling alone I definitely recommend one of these tours. Amongst the red lights, a Christian hostel (there's a story behind it but I've forgotton) and the tribute to the sex worker we weren't left disappointed.            

Amsterdam, The Netherlands (taken 2016)

That's the case with this city, it WON'T disappoint. I've a history of spending little time in large settings because I often get bored after a few days but exceptions have been made. After my time here I'm ready to see more; the decision's been set in stone. I want to keep going through the Netherlands one day because of how safe I feel there. Hell if I had the funds I'd live here and get a novel going.

Amsterdam, The Netherlands (taken 2016)

GO. TO. THIS. CITY! I've never been more honest kiddies. Never!
 
 

SA-HA-RA!!!

The Sahara, Zagora and Merzouga, Morocco

Saharan stars (taken by Catalina Antonieta Pino Rivas, 2016)

Very rare, or almost non existent (kinda unsure on this) for this Sheep to kick things off with the cover shot, but seriously, look at those stars. LOOK AT THEM! The Chilean who took this at Merzouga had myself and several other friendlies in an uproar because our flashy boxes weren't doing sqwat after dark. If this image doesn't convince you of the wonders brought about by overnighting it in the Sahara, I don't know what will.

Considering how easy one can reach it from southern Spain Morocco had always been a priority for me, but thanks to a lot of flack thrown my way (very long story) I'll never take that mother of a ferry again. After an unappealing stint in Tangier and a better one in Marrakech I was on my way to the Sahara for what's already damn clear was one of the most breathtaking experiences I've ever had. If you've got the time and you happen to be in North Africa, MAKE THE DAMN TRIP!

Sunset at Zagora (taken 2016)

Originally I was going to do a bus tour of the country (about 10 days) but for reasons I decided to do things on my own. This was a lesson in independence I'm happy to have learnt. However, figuring out how to reach the desert itself was at one point giving me a migraine. For a while I had no idea how I was going to do it and my coworkers' headaches started rivaling my own because I couldn't stop bitching about it!

Zagora (taken 2016)

Luckily I was to learn via Never Ending Footsteps that it's a given for many hostels and hotels around Marrakech to arrange tours to either Zagora or Merzouga via the Atlas Mountains which of course made me shut my damn mouth. Zagora lasts one night whilst Merzouga goes for two; these are the hot spots for an adventure kiddies. Since Morocco's hard enough to reach for an Aussie (we just ain't close enough for quick stints) and because I had the time I did both of these tours. Ups and downs to come.

The first Sahara group (taken by Yann Courtel, 2016)

Keeping the Atlas Mountains and the other stops for another post I've got brewing, I'll just get straight to the already delivered punch. The Sahara's frickin amazing! It's a marvel of a place and just about no one leaves it feeling any regret whatsoever. I have none! Seriously I don't and I have a terrible habit of dwelling on shit like most Capricorns. This was the highlight of my time in Morocco.

My first stop was in Zagora which I'll admit did less for me than Merzouga. I didn't hate it, no, but when one thinks of camping in the desert massive sand dunes and the odd palm tree should be pictured immediately. Sadly this wasn't the case (you also have to pay for your own scarfs which was an unwanted surprise); we were about twenty metres from a main road and the dunes had gravel and rocks filling in for them. Next to that the camel saddles they used out there belong in a torture museum next to Rebecca Black's Friday. THE PAIN!

Rocking the scarf (taken 2016)

That being the worst of it, there were many positivos to be found which I'm more than happy about. Hanging with some good company who I swear I'll see again one day, we were treated to some warm (it had to be because outside it was freezing!) and lovely Berber hospitality. There wasn't a moment where any of us were feeling left out.

Berber camp at Zagora (taken 2016)

Our Berber Yusuf was a born talker; he had so much to share including a few hand tricks I'm yet to master (too complicated to explain). His one setback was that he couldn't pronounce my name (I'm not being picky because I've never been fond of it either) so we settled on either 'Braheem' or 'the Kangaroo'. This was a compromise to remember.

Next to that there were some on the first tour who were curious about foreign expressions and sayings, so when it came to something Australian I dished out a 'BONZA' to the joy of said 'some'. Should you be hearing a lot of 'BONZAS' across Belgium, France or Colombia and find yourself wondering what the hell happened, this Sheep is to blame. BONZA! (There's a hand gesture to go with it also).

BONZA! with hands (taken by Sandra Londono, 2016)

Zagora won't go down as the worst tour I've done but it could've been better. Another positive worth bringing up is how I was dead to the world for eight hours straight come sleeping time. Usually I'm up two or three times in the night but to stay down from dusk to dawn is the thing of horror stories... and worth making me reach for the sky in victory.

Victory pose at Zagora (taken 2016)

After saying goodbye to my first tour and waiting at a nice hotel for the second one to pick me up (the hotel manager ended up giving me a lift to the bus somewhere in the middle) I was on a two night journey to Merzouga.

The second group of friendlies minus other friendlies (taken by Alex Du Mont, 2016)

The batch of new friendlies were great and upon learning what couscous meant in Arabic our morals became things of the past. I was feeling lucky because I've been on tours where I've wanted to punch someone in the neck but this wasn't the case. WINNING! After a night at a guesthouse we were on our way to Merzouga.

Merzouga (taken 2016)

Expectations were met upon reaching Merzouga. I wanted to see dunes and palm trees and I couldn't have been more ecstatic to see those bad boys and more. Saharan sand will make you weep and not because its hit you in the eye. The camel saddles in these parts didn't leave me walking around boat legged afterwards... but mine was more interested in the arse of the camel in front of me. That horny ship of the desert wasn't as calm as the others in the train which had me feeling edgy so I named it after one of my enemies and felt better for it.

Camels of Merzouga (taken 2016)

Our Berber camp was comfortable and the food was good but it wasn't as 'interactive' as the first I don't think. Their concept of a fire included burning more pizza boxes than wood so the heat was swift and always ending; that was the 'meh' of this place whilst everything else was brilliant. The moment we were off those camels (or falling on our backsides down a slope) we were climbing the dunes with fierce determination.

Pizza box fire (taken by Luciano Motta, 2016)

I cannot underline how huge these dunes were. We were up them in maybe fifteen minutes (could've been more or less but I honestly could not tell you) and the views made our jaws drop for all the right reasons. THIS. WAS. A. MEMORY. MADE! I will cherish this bad boy until my final day!

Zagora and Merzouga are different rides to be taken, each with their ups and downs, but do one or the other... or both of them if you want to make it count. If you've read this far without falling asleep you'll know I've seen some amazing things, smelt badarse horny camels and had a few epic selfies taken (my red sand scarf included which needs some sewing done on the sides if I'm not mistaken) so by all means, try this bad boy out! And let's not forget that special mint tea either...

Saharan Sunset (taken 2016)

BONZA!!!