They Even Have A Spaceship

Coober Pedy, South Australia

Should you be headed south of Uluru and Kata Tjuta on your epic Aussie adventure, be sure to visit Coober Pedy, just a rough 750km drive from the Red Centre via the Stuart Highway. Out in the middle of nowhere, it’s known for underground dwelling residents, a golf course void of any grass (the only green patch you’ll find is at the primary school) and a space ship left over from Pitch Black. Fellow nerds, be sure to come here!                                                 

Coober Pedy, South Australia (taken by Lyn and Tony Eden, 2010)

Coober Pedy, South Australia (taken 2005)

Despite my school camp hitting the place on our way north back in 2005, I’ve chosen to highlight the sights you’ll come across should you hit the town from the opposite direction. One such marvel is the Breakaways, a unique setting of flat-topped outcrops you have to save some camera time for.
  

The Breakaways, South Australia (taken 2005)

The Breakaways, South Australia (taken by Lyn and Tony Eden, 2010)

This breathtaking landscape, thirty kilometres north of Coober Pedy and on a reserve of forty square kilometres, was where Tina Turner was seen hunting down a fella called Max in a flick named Beyond Thunderdome. Rich with fauna and wonder, this is another example of how out-there the Australian landscape can look.                                                   

Further south you’ll come by a few bodies of glistening saltwater that’re worth a walk along. Provided you come by the lake I’ve posted photos of (I do apologise but I wasn’t able to learn the name) have a look for the rusted up camper van rocking the graffiti. Thanks to the cover of Tim Winton’s The Turning, abandoned car wrecks now have some appeal.       

Salt Lake, South Australia (taken 2005)

Should you be stretched for time and feeling fatigued, stop over at the Cadney Homestead. We had a relaxing time here amongst the locals and road trains but the one let down was the suss smell that was going around. Fingers are crossed it’s been taken care of.       

Cadney Homestead, South Australia (taken 2005)

And now we’re at the prize of this journey. First established by gold prospectors on February 1^st 1915, Coober Pedy’s name originates from the Aboriginal phrase ‘Kupa Piti’ which loosely means ‘white man’s hole in the ground’. Whilst the prospectors didn’t come by much gold, they did discover what would become the world’s largest deposit of opals, ahead of Mexico and Brazil. The town makes a living off of these minerals so you’ll find more than enough on offer. If a walk about is your agenda, suss out a guide beforehand because trespassing on claims comes with a $1000 fine, and there’s also the added risk of falling through the ground.

Coober Pedy, South Australia (taken 2005)

Another most unique feature about Coober Pedy are the underground homes, dugouts, that are considered (in this most severely tempered environment) ingenious. We did stay underground for our night here, due to safety reasons, and I have to say that fragments of the ceiling did fall to the ground and ignite the freak out effect but that was all. We had a very cool nights sleep. As well as homes, we did come by a swimming pool and a chapel functioning beneath the surface so that’s what you’re like to find.                                                

Coober Pedy, South Australia (taken 2005)

When it’s a clear day you’re awarded a great view atop one of the many dirt hills that provided its share of wind and dust, which is to be expected, but who would really care. The view is brilliant. Coober Pedy is one of Australia’s most unique townships, thanks to its hobbits and space ship, so you have to give it a shot. 

Coober Pedy, South Australia (taken by Lyn and Tony Eden, 2010) 

Link: www.cooberpedy.sa.gov.au/tourism   

    

Red Dirt Is What You'll Find

Uluru and Kata Tjuta, Northern Territory

This is a post most travellers to Oz might find useful should they be headed to our Red Centre… and yes, red dirt is what you’ll find. Uluru and Kata Tjuta (also known as Ayers Rock and the Olgas but this blogger has a preference for traditional names) are two majestic eyesores everyone should take in, even if it’s just once in your mortal lifetime. No trip to Australia is complete without this stop, said a musical man whose name I can’t remember, but I know that he exists.                                

Uluru and Kata Tjuta, Northern Territory (taken 2001 and 2005)

I came here in 2005 on the momentous ‘secondary school central camp’, which could in some way be considered a ‘rite of passage’ for Victorian teenagers. Whilst up there I even ran into a friend from primary school. At the time this was traditionally a year eleven camp, but we were short on numbers so the school decided to bring the year tens along. Not too fussed about the situation, we shared our objections during a lunchtime meet which evidently went no where. However, I think it was day one when we realised that we didn’t have a problem with the arrangement whatsoever.

Moving on, my older sister and brother both did the trip before me, with the latter repeating non-stop for many years just how great it was (to the point that I wanted to say ‘I’ll go if you shut up!’), and I must admit that partaking in such an experience, especially with my friends, was one of the best in my life.

About 461km south west of Alice Springs, the drive is pretty relaxing but the option to fly from Sydney is also on offer. In this case I’d recommend going by road because it’s one of those things you just have to do; many people prefer this option, and remember I’m all about the scenery. In finding a place to stay, the town of Yulara is the only option on offer. This town was built especially for the tourists so remember to book in advance. It’s here you can find all of the bare essentials and plan scenic flights, camel rides and guided walks amongst other activities.                                  

As for our own sleeping conditions, we camped here in a bit of comfort (the ground was soft and the toilet block was nearby is what I mean) but we did underestimate just how cold it could get. The winds of winter caught up with us on day one so having some warm clothes on standby will do you a load of good.                                                                                 

Having gotten all of that out of the way, let’s talk about all things iconic and amazeballs. I’m going to start with Kata Tjuta (the Olgas if you’ve forgotten) first because to be honest, I enjoyed them a little more (I also believe it doesn’t get as much time in the spotlight either). Before reaching Kata Tjuta itself, you’ll definitely have to make a stop in order to get a shot of the place as a whole, but this can still prove difficult even from the viewing platform. Seeing it with your own eyes is still enjoyable and walking through them is an experience you have to try.    

Kata Tjuta, Northern Territory (taken 2001 and 2005)

Kata Tjuta stands at 546m above the plain and comes in every shade of earth you can think of. Be sure to remember a pair of good walking shoes because the path can get bumpy. Passing through the corridor of giant rocks comes with its tranquillity, but it’s not what you’ll find at the end that’ll be your reward (in my opinion); by turning around to face the way you’ve come, you’re given a view of the outback complete with its own bookends. Getting from point A to B you might just see some bleach white animal bones and little rock towers and if I remember correctly you’re better off leaving these alone. Memories and photos are all you’ll need, minus the bad selfies.    

Kata Tjuta, Northern Territory (taken 2005)

Moving on, we’ve now come to the juggernaut of Australian tourism. Uluru (still commonly known as Ayers Rock) pretty much reaches the top of every traveller’s itinerary. Standing at 348m above the plain and with a circumference of 9.4km, this wonder of nature can satisfy anyone in a number of ways. Literally, just by looking at the thing you’ll feel like you’ve accomplished so much, or you could drop your jaw completely.

Uluru, Northern Territory (taken 2005)

What I enjoyed most were the simple things, like walking around the base looking for Aboriginal artwork (be sure to have a guide with you and ask permission before taking pictures) and watching the rock at sunset. This is when Uluru changes colour and is something you cannot miss.

Uluru, Northern Territory (taken 2001 and 2005)

Now to bring up something that crosses most people’s minds; should you climb Uluru? The option is there, provided the weather conditions are good and you’re up for the challenge, but it is respectfully asked by the traditional owners, the Anangu people, that tourists do not. There have also been accidental deaths in the past.                                                

I myself was going to make the climb and almost made it halfway to the chain climbers can use for assistance, but my nerves got the best of me and I went back down. I did get a bit teary because going up the bloody thing had been my plan for a long time, but I’m happy to say that this was a decision I’ve never regretted. I think I remember my spirits being raised soon after when a fellow student thought to treat the rock like a slide and came down with torn up shorts. There was also someone saying that they wanted to see the drink machine up there also. But whilst I’m told that this is one of those ‘you’ve just got to try it’ experiences and that the view is spectacular from the top, the choice to climb has started to lose its hype in recent years, and this is mostly coming from Australians also.                          

In addition there are several other facts travellers should be aware of. The Anangu people, who reclaimed their rightful ownership of the lands in 1985 during ‘the hand back’, can close the park at any time they wish, usually when particular days hold cultural significance for them. They also ask that you don’t take any smaller rocks home as souvenirs as this is taboo, and the same goes for taking photos of cave paintings (a mistake even I’ve made). Some may disagree but the Anangu have a reputation for being very welcoming and it’s always a positive when guests respect hosts and their wishes; it leads to good karma. This tribe has even been known to invite visitors to witness their ceremonies take place.             

Altogether, my time here was certainly unforgettable and worth the wait. These camps do continue to run, prompting this sheep to shout out, ‘Teenagers, you need to do this camp!’                       

In addition to those unique memories one holds dear, I’m reminded of a contribution that I and one other made to the whole experience. A year ten girl and I got the job of designing the camp tops we had printed in Alice Springs.        

Drawn by Hannah Peters and the Sheep, 2005

                                                   
The rock at the top was my contribution and the rest was her brainchild. This is the one trip I’ve been on where I can say, ‘been there, done that, drew the T-shirt!’   

A BIG PS here, but I want to thank my brother Graeme for loaning me his shots. I'd of mentioned his name many times above but I'm a lazy little brother.

Links: www.travelnt.com, www.parksaustralia.gov.au/uluru/index.html