Home Found

Cairns, Queensland

There will always be a few stops on our roads travelled that we’ll want to return to, some of which I’ve highlighted in previous posts, but there comes a point where us nomads will stumble across a rest that’ll make us think, I want to call this place home. Having asked years ago where I should snorkel the Great Barrier Reef, a German friendly suggested the gateway to Far North Queensland, Cairns. This was a fine decision made; I’ve been up there twice, in 2011 when I was playing mega nomad, and 2014 when I wanted to be one of those people who do three trips in the one year.

Cairns, Queensland (taken 2014)

Much like with other destinations visited, what I appreciate most about Cairns is how it inspires me. Because of this, I want to make the move up there, a decision which ‘lightbulbed’ itself during a friendly and hilarious chat with two receptionists at the local YHA. After a few laughs and realising that I wanted in, and because I liked the hammock chairs on the second floor balcony, I asked for an application form. Nothing’s happened yet, obviously, but the seed’s been planted. 

YHA Hostel, Cairns, Queensland (taken 2011)

With that out in the open, Cairns also had a positive effect on my creative side. The gods willing there’ll be some books published in the future, one featuring an ‘aquakinetic’ local and another where the place will go by ‘Treecircle’ after some social collapse, for which I can call my own little creations. My artistic ability has also fallen victim, for which I’m more than grateful; the left hand has been getting a bit lazy. This display of inked up madness started with a black spot which turned into something many from five other continents were awing about.

Drawn by the Sheep, 2011

This is what I find myself cherishing most, what I could create, as well as the memories of some amazing people I will never forget. A few oh so unique hostel receptionists (one of which remembered me on my second stint), some Americans and a Norwegian who showed me some kindnesses (had a vicious headache, which felt like a bullet in the brain, following a live aboard and the latter was there for me) as well as plenty of others. If I haven’t made it clear already, I’ll say it again, ‘Thank you.’

Moving onto the more touristy side of things, this is what I can gladly share with you good people who read this blog of your own volition. Cairns’ for those who want the outdoors, sun on your shoulders, and most especially the opportunity to swim out on the Great Barrier Reef. It is beautiful, there can be no doubt, and there were spots I enjoyed more than others but after snorkelling near Cape Tribulation I’ve realised that there’s something lacking when taking a tour from the gateway’s shores.

The Great Barrier Reef, Queensland (taken 2014) 

This is just a personal opinion though; I don’t care much for diving and for both ‘Cairns originating’ tours I had to share the water with divers. The tours, with Cairns Dive Centre, were of good quality and I’m happy to recommend (the crew were really positive and friendly), but experiences have taught me that these companies will put the divers ahead of the snorkelers; we’ll get the icing whilst they get the cake, so to speak.

I did an intro dive which got me time with a white pointer and a stingray I mistook for a giant underwater mushroom, but unfortunately it resulted in the pre-mentioned headache above. This is why I won’t dive anymore. For those wondering, I only went with the company on my second stay because a third party failed to provide what I’d originally wanted and I didn’t want to waste a day sitting around. When I make my third visit though I’ll look into one of the many pontoons out on the water; I’ve heard good things.

Back on dry land there’s just as much to keep you busy. What many hold out for are the trips to Port Douglas, the Daintree and Cape York up north (there are already posts about these bad boys) and the numerous animal parks abundant where the kangaroos will eat out of your hand.

Port Douglas, Queensland (taken 2011)

Animal Park, Queensland (taken 2011)

Mossman Gorge is a place to keep in mind also. An hour and ten (76km) north of town, I learnt about the gorge on my second return trip from the Daintree and it’s since become another happy accident, and those are good things I will preach. I urge you to give Mossman a shot, for it is some tranquil turf indeed. You’ll find in the water massive rocks to swim around and climb on, a positive atmosphere and some friendly fish; NO CROCS WERE ON SITE... but still, be careful.    

Mossman Gorge, Queensland (taken 2014)

On a far less flashy note, it was some of the simple things that had me smiling. Safe to say, by my second visit I’d mustered up some balls to go out and act like a proper tourist. The Esplanade brings to light good memories of walking by the water and amongst the locals and other out-of-towners (there’s a free outdoor swimming pool for those interested) as well as seeing the fruit bats swinging from the tree branches. I know some have bat phobias (*cough a Glaswegian I know cough*) and there are those who’re convinced Australian fauna has a taste for human blood, but these guys are perfectly harmless.

Esplanade, Cairns, Queensland (taken 2014)

Walking about at night, you should suss out the Night Market which is open from 4PM onwards. You can find plenty here, such as souvenirs, tea and massages, and the food is good. They’ve got some Asian and seafood on offer and it’ll most certainly be fresh; just one benefit of a city being by the sea. However, if it’s a mellow pace you’re seeking, take your book to the park by the Esplanade, find a spot under a tree and start turning pages.

Night Market, Cairns, Queensland (taken 2014)

These are just a retelling of things I’ve enjoyed, not-so-enjoyed, but overall appreciated about Cairns. If your interest’s been seized, make the trip and decide what the far north is to you. For me it’s inspiration and a home found. We all settle on one when making our journey.

Cairns, Queensland (taken 2011)

Links: www.cairnsvisitorcentre.com, www.cairnsdive.com.au, www.facebook.com.au/cairnscentralyha, www.mossmangorge.com.au

To The Tip!

The Road To Cape York, Queensland

Hitting the homeland again, I thought it was time to share with you one of the biggest staples in Australian travel. Heading north of Cairns you’ll discover the road to Cape York; more 4WD friendly and regular car hateful (met a family who learnt this the hard way) but at the same time completely worthwhile. One of several in my family, I made my way to the northern tip of the continent in 2011 at the tail end of my Aussie odyssey and have been grateful for making the decision ever since. The drive (from Cairns and via the Daintree and Cooktown) is 1000km and can be done in a day or you could simply fly, but this is a journey one must take time with.

The Road To Cape York, Queensland (taken 2011)

Jumping on a camping tour, I found myself amongst other Mexicans (the far northern term for Victorians) who I instantly connected with. Leading us on our path was a former hairdresser who knew Baz Luhrmann before he was famous and a grandmother with the biggest bag of offensive jokes I’ve ever heard (at least one of them will be featured). Laughs were had, a cult-like following devoted to a wok was formed and a can of spam meat was awarded for anything stupid (won that twice). This was a great group experience but alas the company isn’t in business anymore.

The Road To Cape York, Queensland (taken 2011)

North of Cooktown is where everything turned rugged; we moved at our own pace which in truth allowed us to appreciate everything so much more. Passing old homesteads, raw outback and the odd bull, there was much to be had on our way to Cape York. A couple of highlights, both natural and of our own making are to follow but told in incorrect order.

Termite mounds are a plentiful in the north, standing in their many forms, and this trip never fell short. Yes, we could’ve had our picture taken with any of them but if you wait long enough and stop at the right time, you will see the biggest. 

The Road To Cape York, Queensland (taken 2011)

Whilst the exact height is sketchy to me, I learnt that it will continue to grow and that others may even surpass it one day. There was a much smaller one nearby which we took turns getting messed-up shots with; I’d post my own picture but most people enjoy having the sense of sight.

After that fix of nature we came across both Fruit Bat and Twin Falls (in that order I believe) which was nothing short of refreshing. Whilst it can be painful to pass under a waterfall, sitting behind the falling sheet of water was definitely something to make the people back home envious about. Not being hard to find, both falls were drawing in the many and the latter (Twin) was where we made our camp for one night… and started a wok cult.

 Fruit Bat Falls, Queensland (taken 2011)

 Twin Falls, Queensland (taken 2011)

This proved beneficial since the following morning we had the place to ourselves. I highly recommend taking a dip in the river water since the far northern beaches come with there plentiful share of apex predators; FYI, crocs can be seen lying on the sand in the morning and shark fins were breaking the sea surface at dusk. Twas grand sights to be had.

With that said, it’s time to share ‘the events of our own creation’. When driving on such remote roads be sure to check that everything at your disposal is in good working condition before the ignition goes on. Cometh day… three, our camper trailer took a turn for the worse and decided to slow us down for a bit.                                                                           

The Road To Cape York, Queensland (taken 2011) 

The Jardine River, Queensland (taken 2011) 

Yes, the spam was awarded to our driver but luckily we were able to do a patch job and weld everything back together at the next road house. With the greater leg completed… and after a quick ferry crossing of the Jardine River (the north enjoys its siesta time so times will vary), we set up camp in the town of Seisia which was more than welcoming to us and everyone else (a few old timey vehicles even made it north to much amazement).

With only a few days to work with, the jetty was a popular spot to caste out a line for something with scales; the whole town was out in the afternoon once siesta was over. There’s also a small market where I saw some nice woodcraft for sale. A day trip to Thursday Island is on offer (funds prevented me from going and I didn’t want the others on the tour paying for me; nice of them to offer but there’s a big difference between a drink and a boat ride). Something else to look out for is the plane wreck at Bamaga, which we stopped at before I was dropped off at the airport. Overall, Seisia is no regret, but I still haven’t forgiven that helicopter pilot who chased me along the beach.

Seisia, Queensland (taken 2011)

That all ranted about, it’s now time to talk about the all too appreciated tip of the Australian continent. Comfortable shoes will be a saviour as you cross from the beach (crabs are plentiful) to the rocky slope which leads onto the desired destination (if you’ve brought a rock from far away, be sure to leave it on a pile and make a wish). Nothing’s really hard about the walk but be careful in case it’s slippery. Once that’s out of the way, take your place in front of the sign and get that all important shot. It’s one of those hard-to-top moments so breathe everything in.

Cape York, Queensland (taken 2011)

Now for the joke…

Long wedded couple Paddy and Portia had just welcomed their thirteenth child in twelve years when Portia decided it would be her last. Paddy doesn’t attempt to argue with her, not even when she tells him to have the snip performed. Still the dutiful husband, Paddy makes an appointment. His doctor on the other hand doesn’t believe Paddy can afford the operation and suggests a cheaper and faster alternative.                    

‘Light a cracker, drop it in a beer can and count to 10.’  

Paddy tells Portia who agrees with its simplicity. As instructed, Paddy lights a cracker and drops it in his beer can. On his left hand he counts to 5, but needing to reach 10 he places the can between his legs so as to continue.

Happy travels! 

The Road To Cape York, Queensland (taken 2011) 

Links: www.tourismcapeyork.com, discoverqueensland.com.au 

    

When I Became A 'Travel Writer'

The Daintree, Queensland

I am now a ‘travel writer’, in the sense that I go somewhere so that I might write about it. Am I all right with it, I believe yes is the correct answer, and so here we go. I went to the Daintree back in 2011 when I was on the move but only for a limited time, in which I didn’t get to see a wild cassowary, so it was my intention to give it another shot when the opportunity arose. So in this year of 2014 I booked a ticket and went back north for a week; my timing was pretty good because I was avoiding some of Melbourne’s beloved wet spring weather and the hot tropics would do my sickness at the time a good paddling.

The Daintree, Queensland (taken 2014)                                                                                                                                                             

To say the Daintree rainforest is a nice place is a severely insulting understatement. Bordering with the Great Barrier Reef (making them two UNESCO listed sites to do so); this is a beautiful place that can’t get more natural and adventurer friendly. I spent three nights here and got a huge dose of everything they have on offer, except for a wild cassowary which was one of my reasons for returning. Most will say that wanting to see a large bird with ‘knife-like’ toes is the thing of insanity, but I say that life needs its share of thrills. The scrub fowls were a plenty though.                               

The trip from Cairns runs for about 124km and there are tour groups that’ll give you a ride (I went with Cape Trib Connections because they were able to book in advance). On the other hand, if you’ve got a car take full advantage of that bad boy because then you can very easily go at your own pace.                                                                                                                                                                                  
On your travels be sure to stop at Alexandra Lookout where the view is fine and then take a boat ride on the Daintree River where you’re more than like to find some saltwater crocs soaking up the sun like party girls in Ibiza (if you’re hitching a ride with a tour group a boat ride will most likely be included). In addition, if the locals should tell you not to get close to the water’s edge, take their advice on board!
                              

                                                                                                              

                           

The Daintree, Queensland (taken 2011 and 2014)

The eco lodge Crocodylus is a place you should consider staying when coming to these parts; set away from commercial annoyances but only two kilometres away from the Floravilla Ice Creamery (go there and ask for black sabote) and not that far from the Daintree Discovery Centre (spend one of your mornings walking up here), I found this place to be exactly what it was hyped about. The trees were what I enjoyed the most, being nothing like I’m used to back home in Melbs. The friendly staff were extremely helpful in making my stay what I wanted it to be (they’ll jump over anything to get the job done) and they even shouted me a Coke on my last day there.                                      

The Daintree, Queensland (taken 2014)

Crocodylus does provide in house activities, one of which was a night time nature walk not far from the front door but make sure you have good shoes. Each trip provides something different; I took from mine some talk of bats, lizards and insects I was happy to get a few shots of. Remember, nature goes at its own pace so take this experience expecting to see anything and you should be fine.                                                  

The Daintree, Queensland (taken 2014)

That all said, a few select places I enjoyed immensely were pretty far up the road at Cape Tribulation. This beach is big, postcard worthy and more importantly (in my opinion), quiet. Just find a shady spot at the tree line, open your book and enjoy the peace. From the lodge you could easily make this a day trip when plenty can happen; on my day there I got into some snorkelling and Jungle Surfing which anyone, regardless of age, can take a crack at.                                                     

                                                        

Cape Tribulation, Queensland (taken 2011)

Ocean Safari will give you a great half day out on the reef, providing excellent conditions for the experienced or novice snorkeler. Riding a jet boat so little time is wasted, you’re out in the crystal blue water in no time. The visibility and colour is something to appreciate and the marine life comes in its many forms; I came close to turtles, blue-spotted stingrays and giant clams which I valued, and on other days you’re like to see sharks. 

Great Barrier Reed, Queensland (taken 2014)

Seeing the reef from a secluded spot like Cape Tribulation comes with advantages that Cairns can’t possibly provide. This was the trip that made me value the Great Barrier Reef like so many others. I’d like to add that the tour operators will look after you (they’ll give out jelly suits) and keep things interesting; I’d already met one of the guides in Airlie Beach back in 2011 and he remembered me also which isn’t bad.                                                                 

After my snorkelling was complete and a good burger at PK’s for lunch, I set off to enjoy some Jungle Surfing (zip lining to be exact) in the tree tops which included operating a human hamster wheel, complimentary Crocs and helmets with the names of famous individuals on them, such as Cookie Monster, Barbie and Pippy Longstockings; I scored the Hulk, which is a recurring thing with me for some reason. Once we were up in the tree tops where my nerves started playing with me, everything took on an extra level of awesome.                                                                                                             

The Daintree, Queensland (taken 2014)

With your physical well-being their number one priority, Jungle Surfing will take you from tree to tree with the sun on your skin and some steady humour echoing in your ear. The views come with the all important jaw dropping effect in some places. They offer their tours to people aged from 3 to 103 and on some days they’ll have a cameraman getting all the best shots for you (didn’t happen for me but I’m not arguing). One thing you should consider is to take the course upside down: it was the good type of trippy which I want to try again when the opportunity presents itself.        

Now, judging from what’s been written it’s safe to say that my time in the Daintree couldn’t possibly be regrettable, but I’m still disappointed that I didn’t get to see a wild cassowary on its own turf. So in saying that, I’ve chosen to complete this post with a product of my failed mini endeavour.              

Drawn by the Sheep, 2014
The bird will be drawn in when I see it in the flesh.
And a good day to you.            

Links: www.daintreecrocodylus.com.au, www.capetribconnections.com, www.oceansafari.com.au, junglesurfing.com.au, www.daintree-rec.com.au