Take A Seat And Watch The Sky Change Colour

Keep River, Northern Territory

Now I know this’ll be a short post but it’s one I’ll hope you, the good reader, will like. Wanting to try something a little different, I’ve brought you back to the Northern Territory where I’ll be talking about a nice place named Keep River, a national park that borders with Western Australia. I came here on the Kimberley tour of 2011 at the point where we were still making things up as we moved along, and in doing so we took a side trip outside of the west for the night. We were somewhere between the towns of Kununurra (46.4km) and Katherine (467 km). Keep River has been recognised as the traditional lands of the Miriwoong and Kadjerong people.                                            

Keep River, Northern Territory (taken 2011)

Much like Purnululu, Keep River is known for the large sandstone formations that cover the area. Whilst not as large, these rocks are something you’ll want to take a walk through once you’ve arrived (the camping grounds are right near them). During the day it’ll no doubt be hot but hitting the area in the morning is good and it’s even better at sunset. Just take a seat and watch the sky change colour, and don’t forget your camera. The shots are worthy of your SD card, a lesson I learnt halfway through my first lap of the area. My tour guide let me go back for some more but he was a little vocal that I get back to camp before everything went dark and the cane toads came out; couldn’t be more understanding of the man’s concern, plus toads happen to be horrid.                                               
Still, the setting sun is an acceptable drawcard for the free spirited 4WD nut. I’m going so far to say it has all the energy of a scene from the film Cloud Atlas (i.e. Tom Hanks and Halle Berry sitting on the mountain of a future Hawaii feels like it has some relevance). The trip there wasn’t an ordeal but if you’ve got fruit, vegetables or honey and you’re going back west, either scoff it or donate it to campers heading in the opposite direction, which is what we did. Western Australia won’t allow any of the above mentioned across its border.            

Keep River, Northern Territory (taken 2011)

When coming to Keep River, there is a place that deserves a special mention; Cockatoo Lagoon, which is also where you’ll find the information centre. Small and out of the way, we came here to see the picturesque body of water and the colourful lilies (good bush tucker they’ve been called) that float atop it; the birds are something to smile about also. Standing nearby is a gallery featuring the works of local Indigenous artists and it was here (where I read the story of a woman who used to hide in the lagoon from an abusive station manager) that I received a little inspiration for a prose I’ve been working on ever since.                                                                                         

Cockatoo Lagoon, Northern Territory (taken 2011)

People will travel for many reasons (to see places, discover who they are, mule contraband etc.) but I’m all for going somewhere to be inspired, which has happened more than once. In saying that, I wanted to do something different with this post and include the fruits of my travels.           

Note: this piece contains adult content.

Lilies on Water

She ran through the trees, over rocks, under the bright sun. Snapping sticks under her bare feet. She held her bulging belly just to feel pain, to know it was still there; the seed wanting out. Screamed! Worse the pains got. Behind her they were. Drovers with their whips and knives. She'd be found, beaten, stabbed. Dead. She’d be found. The baby wouldn't last long. One of them drovers might be the pa. Who knows it? He might make the last blow.               

She screamed. The sun filled the sky with the feel of fire; there were no clouds. Only blue that felt of the flame. Breathe, pant, feel the pain, wipe some sweat from her forehead and scream some more. Scream again; send some birds into the air. Her ending would be a slow walk she couldn’t see.                                 

'I heard somethin!' a voice shouted not far away. 'She's
here!'

She looked over her shoulder at the untamed scrub. Grass growing wild and dry. Hiding behind a tree, her dark skin touching rough gum bark as leaves swayed above. Greens and browns and maybe a little red, like in those Scottish bricks she saw at the station. That wicked place she’d got taken to. Shadows danced around her. Pain!

Seed wanting out. She want out too!                       

Out of the station where the men beat her in packs. Out of her cotton dress, stained with sweat and dirt and the water from inside her.                                     

Out of the bleeding situation would be nice too!          

'Help me!' she screamed. Her mistake.                      

A dog barked somewhere. They were close, she was doomed. Doomed! They were closer; she was all sorts of dead! She shouldn’t stabbed that station manager with the broken bottle. He was hurting her; hurting the seed. She didn’t want the bed beatings no more.      

Her big round eyes opened and she looked at all around. She knew where those trees would take her. Hadn’t been for a while but she knew it.                                   

Running for both lives, clutching her belly and thinking she knew a good hiding spot; them drovers might get lost. What will I do tomorrow? She thought about a tomorrow, knowing it would happen, and then she found it.                          

The lagoon ripples glinting in the sunlight; the lilies floating on its top. Creatures flew everywhere, ducks, dragonflies, great jabiru. An ibis perched on a branch. Looked down at her with knowing eyes as tree shadow covered all. She watched from her hiding spot. Safe from the monsters. A breath. She smelt the air, the scent of flowers, felt the grass under her toes. The pains weren’t so painful now. A laugh there was, and a smile. She pulled off that cotton dress and stepped into the cool water where the fish swam around her bare legs and belly.                                          

Blood cooled, like streams running through her. Fish scales moved against her skin. A bird called as the day and everything of it turned to something else. The sun felt like a warm hand giving her love; there was no fire in the air. The look of a new path to be walked; she smiled.                       

A baby rose to the lagoon’s top, covered with water lilies.                                                       
The ibis left its branch, flapping wings.

I kind of feel like that ibis ending everything on a moment, a thing I picked up from reading too much by Tim Winton, but it keeps things fixed in reality. Here’s hoping you enjoyed this little change, for you’ll be coming across it again in the near future.

Link: www.parksandwildlife.nt.gov.au 

  

The Big Thanking of You!!!

Not a travel post but I think this is due. I was semi off the grid last week when The Sheep Was Here reached its thousandth view. I made a mention about this on the infamous Facebook but I only just thought that this might be more appropriate.

So, to all the people from around the world who have followed me, whether ye be friends, family, acquaintances, people I traveled with, people I met once and didn't realise it, nomads who're looking for their next big destination, people who's laptops I commandeered and bookmarked this blog or insomniacs hitting cyberspace because they're out of vodka, I thank you all for making this thing grow into what it is. 

Here's to the next thousand views, and of course, happy travels!

Which A Lot Of Us Like To Have Fun With

Sydney, New South Wales

Being reminded of the works of Melina Marchetta and the late Bryce Courtenay can definitely get one started on a second draft of a Sydney post… or even visit the place itself, which was a friend’s reason for going not long ago. Definitely a place that leaves an impression on the memory, there’s a lot of animosity shared between Sydney and my home of Melbourne (which a lot of us like to have fun with) but that doesn’t stop us from making a few trips.

Sydney, New South Wales (taken 2011)

My first was a drive-through back in 1999 in which I’d hoped to see the Harbour Bridge, but I was left feeling disappointed afterwards.                                
Me: When are we seeing the bridge?
Mum: We just crossed it.
That moment was annoying me for a time.                                                                           

So, in 2011 (long gap, I know) I made the decision to stay in Australia’s biggest city (established on the 26th of January, 1788 and still not its capital) for a few inexpensive days when I was coming down from Queensland. When having my first real look at the skyline I felt a bit overwhelmed by the size and had a flashback to ‘the city on the water’ in Inception; that being said, I felt like I should’ve spent less time here, but that shouldn’t suggest I didn’t find something to enjoy. Everything I did can easily be fitted into a single day if you’re on the go.                                                                       
Should the weather be behaving itself, take a walk and see Darling Harbour (where I was to meet up with a friend I’d met on my travels); being from Melbourne my tolerance for the cold is pretty high so I was walking around in my thongs (flip flops) to the ‘concerned’ stares of the natives, but if the sun’s out it really adds a lot to the setting.                                                

Sydney, New South Wales (taken 2011)

It’s in Darling Harbour; hated by locals apparently, where you’re awarded all the best shots of the city skyline you could ask for. You’ve got ready access to eateries, shopping locales and the Sydney Sealife Aquarium (the highlight for me was the dugong and the Lego displays) and Wild Life Sydney Zoo which I enjoyed, but by that point of my travels I’d seen plenty of the animals on their own turf; visitors are able to see both in a ‘package deal’ which should save a few dollars. 

Sydney, New South Wales (taken 2011)

It was at Darling Harbour where I hopped on the monorail also, but it’s since been shut down. Annoyed grunt! Once you’re done here, keep walking and you’ll be looking up at two of Australia’s biggest eyesores.
                                                      
Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, both exclusive enough to be taken over by Oprah and her goons, are certainly worthy of your camera’s SD card. Tourists are able to climb the bridge but a girl at the hostel told me the cost was too much, so I’d plan for this in advance. Speaking honestly, I wasn’t completely overwhelmed, unlike when I’d just swam with the world’s biggest fish or seen Joss Whedon speak, but it was still rewarding to stand in sight of two of my country’s most renown structural icons. It was cloudy when I was there but it wasn’t a let down whatsoever.

Sydney, New South Wales (taken 2011)

Now, like other destinations I’ve visited I had an objective in coming to Sydney; I wanted to go out on the water. Speed boat rides are a plenty, but I wanted to go traditional and ride a ferry. My reasons stem from a picture book I read as a child where a group of ducks waddled around the wonders of the city, and one of said wonders happened to be the ferries.

Sydney, New South Wales (taken 2011)

So, I found one that was going out and managed to get the top deck to myself for most of the time. People below me were eating a buffet lunch or something but I didn’t care if I was missing out on the luxuries. Looking out at the water, going under the bridge, passing Luna Park and so on were my rewards. It was something good to end my travels with.
                                                                                                                                                            
By the time all of the above is done, you’ll probably want to finish up. If you can manage it, and I recommend you do, walk back to your accommodation through Hyde Park. The place is quite pleasant and offers a balance of urban nature and art; I was drawn to the statues depicting Greek mythology which is always a winner for me. The bats were out also but they didn’t bother anyone.

Sydney, New South Wales (taken 2011)

Much like my wanting to ride a traditional ferry, my favour for Hyde Park stems from a ‘book related’ reason also. As I walked through the overhanging trees I was looking up at the buildings in the hope of seeing a statue of Trim, the pet cat that belonged to Matthew Flinders, looking out of the window of the state library. It’s a small excuse but these have taken a many wanderers so far. Bryce Courtenay wrote about the fledgling and contemporary Sydney in Matthew Flinders’ Cat and the idea to look for the statue myself was the plan, which didn’t succeed unfortunately. All in all, the walk wasn’t a bad decision. You’re even taken out of the city landscape at several turns.
                                                       
For those coming from overseas, Sydney is usually the first place backpackers will start with, so, on the advice of a Londoner I travelled with in Thailand, I recommend the group OzIntro. They’ll show you a first great week in Australia and help get your living situation sorted out i.e. sim card, bank account, job interviews and so on. Some of the places you see include Bondi Beach and the Blue Mountains if I’m not mistaken.                               

Sydney, New South Wales (taken 2011)

And with that all said, I think I’m done.                                                                                  
Sydney wasn’t my number one stop, but it wasn’t the worst so give it a try.   

Links: www.sydney.com, www.wildlifesydney.com.au, www.sydneyaquarium.com.au, ozintro.com

This Sheep Must Keep The Readers Happy

Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia

Well, it would seem I’ve deviated from an intended course by deciding to blog about my time in Kalbarri ahead of Bendigo. This isn’t by all means a display of my choosing something a little shinier, but my post about the latter just wouldn’t be ready in the near future. I’ve gotta keep myself busy and I have since learnt of a strong following I have in France that keeps coming back for more, so this sheep must keep the readers happy.

Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia (taken 2011)

                                         
Heading back west, the national park at Kalbarri is a popular spot for any kind of travellers looking for something to awe at; all I can say is bring a GOOD pair of shoes and a daypack because you will need both hands at your disposal. The town itself was established in 1951 and is 589km north of Perth, lasting about six and a half hours if going non stop, but I enjoy my eyesores and the road that was taken must be acknowledged!
                                        
Setting out from Perth on a Tuesday with Easyrider Tours (my first ever backpacker tour!!!), I, along with some Germans, a Dane and some Aussies made our way north via a few locations that can’t possibly be forgotten or missed. I was nervous and timid about doing a tour with people I didn’t know, but these reservations were put to rest when we first agreed on the corky texture of some biscuits we chose to bin.
                                          
Our first day on the road went pretty smoothly, and I’ll be making this opinion until death takes me, but with an over abundance of beaches and breakers, the west has THE best coastline in OZ, so haters, silencio.

Coastline, Western Australia (taken 2011)

                                                                                        
The first big stop we made deserves a bit of attention. On a recent adventure to Thailand I shared with some badarse Americans (it was written on one of their shoulders) how Australian sand can come in a variety of colours, so in doing that I was quick to mention the shade of custard yellow you can find at the Pinnacles.

The Pinnacles, Western Australia (taken 2011)

                                                                        
I’m gonna go ahead and say that these long and slender rock formations, some of them even sporting their own ‘beaks’, number in the possible thousands and are a must see for anyone hitting the west; it’s a good stop along the way, especially with the sun out, for you to get lost in. The Pinnacles add to the proof that nature can always amaze us.

The Pinnacles, Western Australia (taken 2011)

                            
Be sure to keep your eyes open for wildlife because we found the tracks of several creatures, including snakes (I’d just like to mention that if you do see a wild snake, do the wise thing and DON’T approach it; that’s how we Aussies have gotten this far, just sayin!) You’re also like to meet some interesting individuals who can add to your experience. We did meet a guy offering discounted skydiving trips but with the exception of a thrill seeking grandmother in our group who looked through my drawing book without asking, the majority of us weren’t that interested in his offer. This sheep don’t jump out of planes.
             
Moving on you’re like to see what the wind can do to the lone trees out in the paddocks and a salt lake, at Port Gregory I’m told, that looked great in the evening. It came up as pink which is common in the west. It’s called Pink Lake but westerners have a tendency to reuse names a lot. The colour comes from bacteria in the ground that also turns carrots orange.

Pink Lake, Western Australia (taken 2011)

                                                                                                                                    
We walked across it for about a half hour maybe and helped leave an impression. I had a feel with my hand and there’s no shame in having a taste of the salt you’ve just touched; it’s one of the things Western Australia is well known for. When our time at the lake was up we completed the drive to the town of Kalbarri.

Pink Lake, Western Australia (taken 2011)

                                      
When you’re here, have some dinner over at Finlay’s Fish BBQ Restaurant. I’m angry at myself for not getting any pics of the place but it has a really good outdoor setting and the seafood was great; they also have meat and I assume vegetarian options available too. We didn’t spend much time in the town itself but I found it easy to get around on foot and it does provide water activities like kayaking.
                                                                                                
And now we’ve come to the cherry on the top (big MEH if you don’t like my use of words.)
                                                                                                                                        
Kalbarri National Park was certainly one of the highlights, if not the spark that inspired my big travels around Australia. I guess the draw card anyone would need to come is Nature’s Window at the Loop. This rock formation isn’t a long or difficult walk from the car park (just keep away from the ledges) and by looking through it you’re given a brilliant shot of the rugged landscape below featuring the 130m deep gorges and the Murchison River, hence the name. 

Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia (taken 2011)

Whilst we were at the Window we took turns having pictures taken of ourselves ‘hanging’ off a ledge (not the ones we were walking along earlier); keep it in mind if you like freaking your parentals out.
                                                                                               
The park has several lookouts that’re bound to keep your cameras busy and jaws dropping (I think my group and I went to Z Bend Lookout but I’m not so sure), and visitors are able to climb down the gorge and swim in the river which is what we did of course.  

Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia (taken 2011)

However, in the interest of safety this climb should only be attempted by people who’re physically abled; I’m not trying to poke anyone but there’s no continuous set of stairs and most of the time we were going over rocks that weren’t exactly flat to walk on. I didn’t have my daypack (brilliant idea it was not) with me so I was juggling a water bottle, camera and towel all at the same time, so KEEP YOUR HANDS FREE!!! But reaching the bottom was certainly its own rewards. I could’ve spent the whole day there.

Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia (taken 2011)

                               
So that’s what I’ve got to say about this brilliant display of nature and everything we saw leading up to it. Oh and here’s a fun fact for anyone concerned about Australia’s deadly wildlife, the scorpions at Kalbarri used to be bigger than Chihuahuas.

Enjoy! 

Links: www.kalbarri.org.au, www.tourwa.com.au