The Home Turf

Melbourne, Victoria

I have to say that it’s taken me some time to get this post started. Being a long time resident of Melbourne, the need to do my city justice on The Sheep Was Here has certainly been present, but the concern that people might accuse me of being biased is also there. Some people don’t think favourably of other biased people I’m told. A lot’s been buzzing around in my head and to be honest it hasn’t been that enjoyable, but I eventually had to convince myself that I should write what I want.   

Melbourne, Victoria (taken 2014)

One of the first cities to stand in Australia, the capital of Victoria has meant a lot to many in one way or another. First founded in 1835, it’s been called the restaurant capital, the most liveable city in the world several years running (a fact we locals are proud of) and for the Browncoats who might be reading, it inspired the name of an oceanic planet in Joss Whedon’s Firefly (the man himself came here to speak in 2010 and brought out nerds in the thousands. I should know because I was one of them). I however just see it as home, and whenever I’m crossing the Yarra River on a bright day I look out at everything on offer and get a reminder of how special it is. Half of my parentage comes from the city so it’s definitely in my blood.     
                                                                                 

Small and going at a relaxed pace (except during peak hour and I can’t be more serious about that) it’s a place anyone can get around easily by foot. If walking’s not your thing though and I am raising an eyebrow (special needs people are excused), the City Circle Tram is on offer which is free to ride. 

Melbourne, Victoria (taken 2014)

Melbourne is a display of how both traditional and contemporary cultures can merge together and become one. The two aspects are present within our architecture (Flinders Street Station stands just across the road from Federation Square), a food scene that we’re well known for (for all things food related I recommend the blog Melbourne Food Review – the Velma Kelly lookalike who writes it is honest as hell!) and certainly within our people. We’re the home of a diverse population. Just by walking down one of the streets or laneways you’re like to find a few hints of the many nationalities that make up the community. Go along Elizabeth Street and you’ll see a few Asian and Middle Eastern eateries paired together.                                                                                 

The directions we’ve taken have most definitely been inspired by the world around us; I met two Kurdish girls who told me that Melbourne reminded them a lot of London. We’ve surpassed many other Australian cities in popularity to the point that many foreign tourists will save visiting us until the end of their journey. One point I’d like to bring up though is that Melbourne DOES experience the most erratic of weather; we can go through all four seasons in a single day.   

                                                            Melbourne, Victoria (taken 2014)                        

Onto more touristy talk, a few locations of interest include the Eureka Skydeck (the tallest building in the southern hemisphere), Melbourne Aquarium, Crown Casino (go at night and you’ll see the fire light everything up along the Yarra) and Docklands. Being a sport loving city, we host the Australian Open and grand finals of AFL football in Olympic Park and we also enjoy our art; the National Gallery of Victoria is a must for anyone holding a brush and pallet. There’s a lot I want to share (and a part of me says I should share everything), but I’ve restricted myself to a few things I enjoy most.                                                                                                                                                                       

First I want to discuss the Shrine of Remembrance. Not far along St Kilda Road from Flinders Street Station, this is a place for those passionate about the past, the conflicts that happened and the brave men and women who took part in them. The Shrine was established in the wake of WWI where the community could gather to pay their respects to the fallen servicemen who were buried abroad. It has since paid tributes to every war and conflict that Australia and New Zealand have participated in. They place a strong emphasis on education which everyone is invited to take part in.  

            Melbourne, Victoria (taken 2014)              

Every ANZAC Day (April 25^th), Victorians gather for the Dawn Service in the thousands. I’ve been there a handful of times and it’s always left a positive impression upon me. Following the Dawn Service, in which the people are invited to lay a red poppy within the Shrine’s walls, a parade of service men and women marches. The steps of the Shrine also provide an ideal view of the skyline; it’s the best place to see the fireworks at New Years.                                                                                              

Right next door to the Shrine is the Royal Botanic Gardens, an unceasing display of greenery in the urban sector. This is definitely a hotspot for anyone wanting to take a walk back to nature. The Royal Botanic Gardens are a haven for over 10,000 species of both domestic and international plant life that attracts visitors all year round. Birdlife is always present, with the black swans being a notable example. If these birds are social enough (or think you have food), they’ll follow you around for a bit.                                                                                                                                                                   

Melbourne, Victoria (taken 2014)  

             
The gardens are all about promoting conservation, as well as encouraging the next generation to get their hands dirty and grow their own fruits and vegetables. An example of this commitment is the children’s garden that has been set up by the entrance. Being so large, when you come into this place you might just forget you were in a city to begin with.

                                                    Melbourne, Victoria (taken 2014)                                                       

In addition to what’s been said, this one Melbournian feature and my all round favourite have been saved for the very end. My mother first showed me these when I was entering my teenage years and they’ve since remained a permanent fixture in my mind; I am of course speaking about the arcades and laneways. Walking through these little beauties can take people away from the bustle of the city and back to some simplicity. Having been around since the early days of the Victorian capital, they’ve become one of the sights we’re well known for. Friends of mine from Sydney said that this was one of the highlights of their first visit.                                                                                               

A few to look out for (city pride is definitely present as I’m writing this) includes the Block and Royal Arcades, the latter being the location of chocolatiers Koko Black which I can safely vouch for. These two have mostly maintained their original designs and have a Parisian feel about them, I’m told.      

                                                           Melbourne, Victoria (taken 2014)                                                                                                                                                                          

Centre Way off of Flinders Lane has always been my personal favourite and has the better atmosphere. Cafes and restaurants operate on each side and street performers come here to entertain. By looking up you can see the apartment buildings which I believe gives the place its warm yet rustic touch.                                               

                                                            Melbourne, Victoria (taken 2014)                                                                                                                       

And lastly I’d like to mention Hosier Lane which is opposite Federation Square. The cobblestones are still the same, but whilst it isn’t a shopping spot it’s since become an outside gallery of vibrant graffiti art which has appealed to many a local and tourist and their cameras. It also has its very own Spanish tapas bar, MoVida.           

                                                            Melbourne, Victoria (taken 2014)                                                                                                            

Whilst I could write away and tell you everything I know and have experienced in this wonderful city (and quite possibly bore myself at the same time), I’ve opted to put my pen down and allowed you, good blog junkie, to do some digging and make up your own mind. Melbourne is alive and has opened its doors for all.                                                             

Links: www.thatsmelbourne.com.au, www.shrine.org.au, www.rbg.vic.gov.au/visit-melbourne, melbournefoodreview.com                                                                                                                  

Think Many-Made-Up-On-The-Spot Back Up Plans

Purnululu National Park, Western Australia

Over in the west is a place any rock junkie (by which I mean geologist) could lose themselves in. Wanting to take a brake from the coast, I’ve moved inland to Purnululu National Park, the traditional lands of the Jaru and Gidja people that remained relatively unknown to western descendants until the 1980s. In the native dialect, Purnululu translates to ‘sandstone’.                                    

Purnululu National Park, Western Australia (taken 2011)

Home to the many upon many Bungle Bungles, I came here with Australian Adventure Travels, a camping tour that started out a little hit and miss (think ‘many made-up-on-the-spot back up plans’ and that one passenger who couldn’t stop sharing a racist opinion). I chose to do the Bungle Bungle add-on simply because there was no available accommodation in Kununurra at the time, but I must admit that this overnight experience was a great way to finish off my time in the Kimberley (we ditched the racist which was another reason why it was so great).                                                          

Purnululu National Park, Western Australia (taken 2011)

With enough know-how, a few permits and a 4WD (can’t be more serious about that last one); wilderness explorers can find themselves having an experience to write home about. Open from April to December during the dry season and a good 250km south of Kununurra, the drive along sealed and unsealed roads to Purnululu will have you looking out the window at everything the bush has to offer. The native fauna and flora are ever present; one might just see their first wild dingo from a distance.        

 Purnululu National Park, Western Australia (taken 2011)

Be sure to load up on everything you’ll need (food and water are popular picks) in Kununurra because the few stops along the way are limited and may cost you an arm and a leg. There is a visitor’s centre in the park (which you must check in with) but they didn’t sell much except for cans of soft drink, so being prepared makes the difference. Building fires from wood found in the park is a big no but the rangers will come by with pieces of red gum which will last (be thankful because the nights will get cold, and for some reason I chose to wear shorts), and camping sites have their own fire pits and toilets.                                            

Now for all things natural; Purnululu’s Bungle Bungle range is a feast for your eyes. This is a given since the visual artist on the tour was breaking out her sketch book every five minutes. These towering domes of rock, at almost 300 metres tall, have taken millions of years to take form. Scattered across the park, they are not without their share of ‘over the top’ descriptions. The best I can come up with would be ‘massive beehive-like dealies with tiger stripes the colours of every earth shade you can think of’. Does that make sense? I’ll let you know when I’ve figured something better out.                                                                      
             

Purnululu National Park, Western Australia (taken 2011)

When it comes to seeing the Bungle Bungle range, travellers have just two options. Scenic flights are on offer departing from Kununurra. This will obviously give you the best views, but option two is to stay on the ground and take on the many trails; for me, this has always been more rewarding (and I’m not just saying this because of my fear of heights). I remember walking around those domes and finding things becoming more different with every taken step. Experiences like that I take a little more personally. The air is refreshing and the sounds tranquil.                                                                                                 

One spot to look out for is Cathedral Gorge, an enclosed area with its very own water feature; an amphitheatre of nature if that’s more helpful. A peaceful element was always present, along with a few echoes also. Cathedral Gorge is definitely worthy of a few shots, but you’ll need to step back a bit to get everything in (a recurring dilemma when in Purnululu and other places in the outback). Having gone through my own stash of pics I was disgusted to learn I didn’t have any that were very good, but fortunately I’ve got an aunt and uncle who took on Highway One in their fossil wagon.  

           Purnululu National Park, Western Australia (taken by Dale and Max Brooking, 2006)                    

Not far from the Cathedral is the walk to Piccaninny Gorge (which I did get pictures of). Overnight treks can happen (thirty kilometres are covered), but we took the shorter option of one point four kilometres which we still found rewarding. It can be both flat and bumpy so keep in mind that walking shoes are your friends. We reached the lookout on an afternoon, meeting a monitor lizard along the way, which gave us a great view of the Piccaninny Creek; as the sun sets the colours of the Bungle Bungles begin to change, leaving a more artistic effect upon memory. The sights can be enjoyable at any time of the day. We enjoyed it so much we went back the following morning. You can get a full camera shot of the view also.                                       

Purnululu National Park, Western Australia (taken 2011)

                                                                                   
Tour wise, everything was beginning to pick up in this add-on which I and a few others welcomed. Everyone there was sharing in a harmony, chatting around the fire and so on and that’s one of the things I look forward to before hopping on a tour bus. Some random moments I remember well was the French couple translating the writing on my shirt to my surprise and how we were discussing the films Bran Nue Dae and Samson and Delilah.                                                                                                                                      

So let this be a small but important lesson for would-be travellers. If you’re finding it impossible to secure some accommodation, take an extra tour somewhere. You might just prosper.

Links: parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au, www.safaris.net.au, www.aviair.com.au

When They've Lived A Dream

Kangaroo Island, South Australia

When we’re young we witness certain images (preferably inspiring and above all healthy) that stick around in the back of our minds for good. Some might single out the bridge in Sydney or Uluru, but for me it just so happened to be a massive rock that I came to call the parrot’s beak. Learning years later that this was one of the unique Remarkable Rocks standing on Kangaroo Island, I had another destination added to the bucket list. Eventually, when it was time to bring in my quarter century, I asked my cousin if she wanted to go somewhere with me. Originally opting for Cambodia, we realised we didn’t know if we were going to love or hate each other by the end so we chose somewhere a little more domestic.   

Kangaroo Island, South Australia (taken 2014)

Located about 210km south west of Adelaide, Australia’s third largest island after Tasmania and Melville is a promising destination for lovers of nature, history and most importantly, trying new things. In the past Indigenous Australians were known to have lived on the island, but up until 2000 years ago the population mysteriously disappeared. Upon its discovery by Matthew Flinders, Europeans have maintained a presence since the early 1800s.                                                            

Originally a place of renegade gangs and sealers, Kangaroo Island now specialises in agriculture (producing mostly wine, honey, wool and caught rock lobsters) with the town of Kingscote acting as the main business and commercial hub. The cousin and I were only there for two days but we found this was more than enough time to take everything in.         

Kangaroo Island, South Australia (taken 2014)

In getting there, we travelled with SeaLink which included a bus ride from Adelaide. The ferry crossing wasn’t long but you should brace yourselves for the odd big wave though; the kiosk on board was selling fresh pastries from a mainland bakery that were pretty good. Alternatively, if you’re not one for boat rides there’s also an air service available. Upon docking at the Penneshaw jetty, we were ready to try something new and took up our places as the only travelling Aussies (there are a surprisingly large number of Swiss in South Australia) with Kangaroo Island Adventure Tours, which can be booked via SeaLink.               

The tour company provided comfortable accommodation, good food one might describe as gourmet BBQ (I’m not big on gourmet anything so that’s saying a lot) and a variety of activities for its customers, notably the scenery, wildlife and how the locals make their living (for example we visited a farm and saw a sheep get sheared). Aside from that, we as a group connected well and were pretty friendly by the first afternoon. Thanks to some talkative Danes, those good people were nice enough to stick a candle in a slice of carrot cake and sing happy birthday to me which I both appreciated and repaid with a German ‘hello’ instead of ‘thank you.'          

Kangaroo Island, South Australia (taken 2014)

As for the other tour highlights, there’s plenty to keep one engaged and wanting more when it’s done and dusted. Second biggest highlight for me was Little Sahara, a collective of towering dunes anyone can sand board down. There’s a fee to hire a board but it won’t upset your budget. The walk from the parking lot isn’t long and the first glimpse of the dunes themselves will make you think you’ve stumbled upon North Africa. Despite being a little hard and sweaty to walk up, the sand boarding was wicked for those who got it right (cousin did, I didn’t); the view from the top is amazing.

                        Kangaroo Island, South Australia (taken 2014)                         

Onto the topic of wildlife, Kangaroo Island boasts an abundance of Aussie icons one could expect to drop their jaw at. Be ready to turn your head a lot because they grace both land, sky and sea; we found no shortage whatsoever or kangaroos, koalas and seals. One memorable resident is a single pet emu named ‘Psycho’ who woke up one day and decided she’d rather be a widow. Wildlife lovers are guaranteed time to observe the native fauna on their own turf; you need only stop on the side of the road to take in a grazing mob of roos and you’re there,  but for some animals a guided walk is the only way to go, especially when seeing the sea lions of Seal Bay.    

              Kangaroo Island, South Australia (taken 2014)             

And then there was the Remarkable Rocks. Without any completely describable form (the exception being the parrot’s beak), these massive formations of granite are certainly a product of nature to behold. We spent an hour or so exploring and taking the all important Kodak moments. Surprisingly enough, some of the walkways were warm. As for the rest, the sea wind was picking up so my only regret was wearing my CEREAL KILLER top, shorts and thongs (flip flops to you Brits and Kiwis), but knowing that I was fulfilling a childhood dream of standing under the parrot’s beak provided the feeling of bliss anyone could want. But onto the topic of safety now, there are rules that must be followed when walking around Remarkable Rocks (they’re up for everyone to see at the entrance), and you’re better to follow them closely. There have been accidents in the past and this is only being reiterated for the wellbeing of travellers.                             

                         Kangaroo Island, South Australia (taken 2014)

Additionally, other opportunities on the table include bush walks (remember a good pair of walking shows!!!), Clifford’s Honey Farm which produces awesome ice cream, plenty of fishing spots and a shoreline of inviting beaches.                

                         Kangaroo Island, South Australia (taken 2014)

Next to seeing some of the most picturesque sights in Australia and meeting an interesting line-up of people (a Brit screaming at a massive huntsman, a Swiss belting out Adele’s Someone Like You and a German who told us our country was amazing, just to name a few), this short visit to Kangaroo Island stands somewhere at the top of my list. The feeling one has when they’ve lived a dream, with a travelling companion they hold dear also, is special in every sense.      

Links: www.tourkangarooisland.com.au, www.sealink.com.au